Friday, September 25, 2009

Pizza Napoletana


Pizza Napoletana in my opinion is the best pizza in the world..especially when eaten in Napoli. Domenico and I have been known to drive for 5 hours from Le Marche when the urge for a good pizza strikes.

Our first stop is usually Pizzeria Da Michele,this is in the heart of Forcella one of the most undesirable areas of Napoli, not far from the station and Piazza Garibaldi. Chaotic is an understatement, noise, dirt and traffic ..no parking unless you double park in an unknown zone with an unknown unofficial parking attendant who you trust your car to then hope for the best that nothing happens!!!

Domenico grew up near to this area and his family owned several shops here many years ago..these have now been taken over by the Chinese who have made a big presence in Napoli and who seem to be accepted by many of the Napolitani. The main market near Piazza Garibaldi has changed too ,even in the few years we have been going there...alot of the stalls have now been taken over by the Aficans who used to sell their goods illegally on the footpaths!!

Da Michele is an institution in Napoli, one of the most well known pizzerias which always has a queue outside. Luckily we arrived just on midday just as the queue was starting ...as usual we ordered a Margherita each and within half an hour we were finished and on our way again.

We also found out not so long ago that Chiara, DJ’s fidanzata has family connections to the pizzeria as her grandfather is one of the owners. So no doubt her family knew of Domenico’s grandmother and other family members who also had shops in the area...such a small world.

Another Pizzeria we go to is Pizzeria Vincezo Costa in Porta Capuana another grotty area of Napoli .

The pizzeria itself is very sparse and basic with no cash register..just a family member adding up the bill in her head and a handbag to store the takings. No receipts here, so I don’t know what happens if the Guarda Finanza drop buy...no doubt a free pizza or two keeps them quiet!!

Domenico used to stop here for a pizza after work when he was a little boy, back then a Margherita cost 30 Lire (1.5 cents), now it costs 4 euro.Pizza fritta is also very common here, which is a calzone stuffed with ricotta and then fried...very tasty though not good for the wasteline!


3 comments:

  1. I just love these posts about Naples! You have written about the places and areas that my wife and I have been to more that once and can't wait to get back to!

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  2. Thanks Gil...hopefully you will be back soon :-)

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  3. " I don’t know what happens if the Guarda Finanza drop buy...no doubt a free pizza or two keeps them quiet!!"

    ...the funny part is, this is probably true!

    RE: da Michele... You don't find any better than that. Great post!

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